Ryuoko Gorge is a breathtaking natural formation in Nikko National Park, Tochigi Prefecture. In mid-autumn, the foliage of the surrounding forest turns a vivid red color, making Ryuoko Gorge one of the best places to see autumn leaves in Kanto. At Ryuoko Gorge, the Kinugawa River carves a winding path through a landscape of volcanic rock. The river is said to resemble the undulating form of a dragon, hence the name Ryuoko, literally ‘Dragon King’. Locals and visitors alike often describe the gorge as a natural work of art, and it’s easy to see why.
The Dragon King Gorge
Off the beaten track compared with Nikko’s better-known sightseeing spots, Ryuoko Gorge is the perfect location for a quiet escape into nature. A 7km trail along the gorge is an easy 90-minute one-way hike. The walk is especially brilliant in autumn when the leaves of the trees surrounding the gorge change color. The contrast between the fiery foliage, pale rocks, and deep blue-green water creates one of Japan’s most striking autumn vistas.
At the beginning of the trail sits the Nijimi Bridge. Here visitors can view Nijimi Falls, named after the rainbow of light its cascading waters create. Perched beside the waterfall is Goryuo Shrine, which houses the dragon king deity Takao no Mikoto. Worshippers moved the shrine’s statue from its original location in Mount Keichozan after a great flood in 1929. Now, the dragon king supposedly guards all water in the area, from rainfall to the nearby hot springs.
Further down into the gorge is Musasabi Bridge, which can be reached by a signposted path off the main trail. This bridge offers views of another hidden waterfall. However, the best view of the gorge is at the aptly named Taikan, or Grand View, where hikers can take in the form of the dragon in all its glory.
Hot Springs
At the end of the hike lies the town of Kawaji Onsen. Once a stop along the route between Nikko City and Aizu-Wakamatsu in Fukushima during the Edo period, the town is little-known by tourists and offers an authentic taste of Japan’s traditional hot spring culture. Some claim that the waters here have healing powers for various ailments.
Since Ryuoko itself has little in the way of accommodation, hikers who want to relax and enjoy the hot springs at a leisurely pace should book a hotel in Kawaiji Onsen and make the return trip the following day. This is a great opportunity to stay in a ryokan (Japanese-style inn) and make the most of your old-world adventure.